Tuesday, December 27, 2016

27.12.16 - Beleza não se põe à mesa

Halloooo, hope your Christmas festivities were suitably joyous...   Ours certainly were, including a full-table spread at Gaby's grandma's on Christmas Eve, followed by a follow-up lasagna binge at Adny and Ridaut's the following afternoon.  I discovered rabanadas, a festive spin on cinnamon toast which I must learn to make, and gorged onpudim and prosecco as custom dictates.

On that note, let's get the phrase of the week out of the way: it translates as "beauty doesn't put food on the table", meaning appearances aren't everything if you can't back it up (with food, obviously).

Prior to the aforementioned feasts, we went to Taynah and Rafa's new flat for a tour and a go on their custom-installed circus cloth (well, Gaby did - I was deemed to tall to be safely dangled above the floor), before seeing the latest Star War at a nearby cinema (my review: took a while to get going, but I was fully on board by the time Darth Vader starting laying into a corridor full of Rebel henchmen).

Yesterday I went to Vila Madalena for some lab-brewed coffee, and today was mostly spent getting to Ilhabela, via land and sea. Should be good! Will try and Skype you from here, send photos, etc.   In the meantime, have a compilation.

Ciao for now,

Saturday, December 24, 2016

24.12.16 - Água com açúcar

Christmas can be pretty odd, if you think about it.   Taking some time off at the end of the year to be with your family and friends – I get that.   Buying presents for them – sure, why not.   Putting up a sparkly tree while singing Gregorian chants - OK, whatever floats your boat.   Hanging large socks on the mantelpiece for a portly stranger who flies down the chimney on a fleet of reindeer… Sorry, who did you say you know at this party again?

The rituals surrounding the basic goodwill-to-all Christmas message can get very weird very quickly, even on your own turf and through the comforting filter of tradition.   Abroad, these eccentricities are thrown into stark relief.   Apparently the folks who celebrate Christmas in Japan do so with large buckets of KFC following a canny marketing push in the ‘70s, while Mexicans traditionally wander the streets inviting themselves into other people’s houses in homage to Mary and Joseph in Bethlehem, except with piñatas.   Similarly, a foreigner might look askance at, say, the Only Fools & Horses Christmas special in the UK, or the French willingly baking a choking hazard into their galettes du roi, for reasons that no one can really remember.

Brazil has plenty of these seasonal quirks – for one, it’s boiling hot in December so the Saint Nick/reindeer look is pretty counterintuitive, leading to amusing sights like Santa’s grotto in Guarujá two years back, home to a very sweaty man in a red vest and white beard.   Also, everyone opens their presents on the night of December 24th, so surely even the dullest of kids must immediately realise that (SPOILER ALERT) Father Christmas doesn’t exist, and yet there he is every year.  

One tradition that you can set your watch to in Brazil is Roberto Carlos’ Christmas show, which is invariably filmed in November and aired in late December.   It’s been going for over 40 years, making it one of the longest-running annual TV events I can think of, and is so ingrained in the national psyche that I must be the only one who still notices how bizarre the entire spectacle is.

Roberto Carlos, for the uninitiated, is a soft-rock crooner and bona fide national treasure (and not, as I first thought, the left-back namesake with a foot like a traction engine).   It struck me as rather quaint that someone so unassuming could become almost as big a symbol of Christmas as Santa himself - imagine if the UK ground to a halt every year to watch a Cliff Richard TV special - but then it has only recently become clear to me just how spectacularly popular he is over here.  He’s sold more records in Latin America than the Beatles, and has collaborated with anyone who’s anyone since the ‘60s.   In Brazil, Elvis isn’t “the King”; Roberto Carlos is.

He got started in TV and film, as part of the family-friendly “Jovem Guarda” rock scene, and must have nailed his own brand of Beatlemania as he successfully transitioned into middle age crooning romantic numbers in Portuguese and Spanish.   Nowadays, apart from the occasional album of standards or ill-advised remix project, his only commitments are the Christmas special and the Roberto Carlos cruise (“Emotions on the High Seas”) which ships out every February and fits his current appearance - basically that of a washed-up cruise-ship entertainer – to a T.   Gaby really wants to go on the Roberto Carlos cruise one day, although she would never admit this to her friends.
 
RC has also acted as a sort of canary in the mine for Brazilian society – during the military dictatorship you were either Team Carlos (clean-cut, mop-tops, etc) or Team Caetano (Veloso, who spearheaded the crazier Tropicália movement and ended up in political exile in London) - but the former later admitted that some of his songs were subtle homages to Caetano, disguised as love songs to fool the censors.   And even Rob isn’t impervious to the current recession: next year’s “cruise” will take place at a resort on dry land, and this year’s TV special had noticeably reduced production values…

My knowledge of his back catalogue is limited to a live CD on the car iPod, but from what I’ve heard, I must say the man has some tunes.  The big hits are “Detalhes”, a sweeping ballad of betrayal and regret, and “É Preciso Saber Viver”, a singalong in the “Hey Jude” mould.   He does a nifty line in upbeat songs about his cars (“O Cadillac” and “O Calhembeque”), and can exhibit a decidedly unromantic streak on tracks like “Cavalgada”, an astonishing six-minute epic which recounts his sexual predilections in uncomfortable detail, via horse-riding metaphor.   Interestingly he doesn’t seem to have many Christmas songs, although he goes on about Jesus a lot.

Mostly “água com açúcar” (“water with sugar”, i.e. nothing to get worked up about), and his longtime songwriting partner Erasmo Carlos has the superior LP, but you can see the appeal.   He’s actually had a pretty rough life, as everyone he’s known and loved has died in tragic circumstances, which adds some depth to his more introspective work.   Even his Keanu Reeves-esque onstage demeanour comes from losing a leg when he was a kid, so my usual barrage of snide cynicism feels a bit mean-spirited on this occasion.

Slashed budget notwithstanding, yesterday’s Christmas special followed a tried-and-tested formula – a professional Greatest Hits revue, in more-or-less chronological order, with cameo appearances by the pop stars and it-people du jour to keep things interesting.    These grasps at cultural relevance sometimes lead to mildly comical attempts at duets, but the general mood is one of unabashed hero-worship and back-patting.   A walking catalogue of diva-esque eccentricities at this point (demanding that everyone wear only blue and white, that kind of thing), Rob meets and greets his guests, visibly goes through the motions until the final singalong of “Jesus Cristo”, doles out roses to the audience, then exits stage right with a wry smile, presumably to kick back and relax for another year. 

And well he might.   He often seems as baffled as anyone by the last half-century of adulation and fame, but then not much makes sense this time of year…

Bonus photo: Ridaut backstage with Robbie C

Tuesday, December 20, 2016

20.12.16 - O rabo está abanando o cachorro

Hallooo, and thanks for your Xmas missives as we gradually power down for the festive holidays.   

Christmas fever truly took hold on Sunday when we went to Aldeia da Serra for the annual Cossi BBQ, featuring animatronic festive decorations in every nook and cranny, a cameo from Andrew in between various capoeira retreats (pictured here with a cushion-based modern art piece), lots of food and drink (including Brasileirinhas, a passion-fruit-and-lime caipirinha in the national colours) and impromptu races on the giant inflatable Havaianas in the pool.  Good times were had by all.

The previous night we went to Villa Country for ribs and line-dancing, which made for a fine combo.  I spotted at least ten people wearing cowboy hats unironically, and actually found it strangely relaxing to follow the same dance steps over and over along with everyone else on the dancefloor (or try to, anyway).

Otherwise we've been herding cats and hunting flats, although I don't foresee much movement on those fronts now until the new year.   I have instead made a very indie Xmas compilation for the weekend, and will leave you with my latest turn of phrase - "the tail is shaking the dog" - which applies to any situation where the natural order of things has been reversed...

Speak soon, and ciao for now,

Tuesday, December 13, 2016

13.12.16 - Toca Raul!

Tally ho,

Hope you're all well in that there France.  We've been diligently flathunting all weekend, veering between the promising (a few nice places, some promising leads from bemused doormen) and the depressing (being told in detailed terms just how far we are from getting a foot on the property ladder by a real estate agent in a hollowed-out, possibly-haunted building site).  Hopefully we'll find somewhere that fits the bill before the Christmas-to-Carnaval torpor sets in.

Elsewhere we went to Garrafas on Wednesday night for a jam with some of Gaby's coursemates, checked out Andréia's new flat in the Zona Sul on Saturday, and had a sing at a nearby practice studio on Sunday.  My personal highlight was going to the gym on Friday to see Gaby and three other girls practice a catwalk-and-choreography for a pyjama fashion show (no, really) they're doing later this week.  I'm not invited to the main event, so as not to distract the talent, but was suitably impressed by the rehearsal.

I've made not one but two compilations, and have been investigating a phrase that I've heard uttered in various live music settings - "Toca Raul!"   Turns out it's the Brazilian equivalent of "Play 'Freebird'!" and refers to the work of Raul Seixas, who I had never heard of but apparently was a big deal in the local rock scene in the '70s and '80s (people still hold an annual parade on his birthday in São Paulo, change their name to his by deed poll, etc).  This article suggests the saying is a curse brought on by Seixas' diminished reputation at the time of his death, and also includes the word "galhofa" ("a big lark"), which is fun to say.

That'll do, pig.

Tuesday, December 6, 2016

06.12.16 - Queimar filme

Hallooo,

Not much to report since the last entry - in a holding pattern as work continues its prolonged death rattle before the holidays (hopefully).   This week we begin house-hunting in earnest, get the cats together and force them to love each other, and gear up for the festive season...

Most of our exploits this week have been based around food (as it should be).   On Friday night we went out for a fancy burger with some of Gaby's masters chums and potential company co-founders, which was followed by a work group gathering in our front room on Sunday and a trip to the new Zona Norte branch of Coco Bambu last night, to celebrate Gaby wrapping up the semester.   I also intend to make mince pies for Christmas, although mincemeat seems to be at a premium here...

Elsewhere I'm reading "Kafka on the Shore" (in which the main character runs away to Shikoku, and is currently staying in the woods near Kochi - thought of Tom...), I've made another compilation, and have been listening to lots of fado having read about the sad Portuguese.  My phrase of the week - "to burn the film" - means to trash someone's reputation, usually by publicly shaming them, and dates back to when you could ruin photographic film by exposing it to too much light.

Well, about time I hit the ol' dusty trail... Speak soon!

Tuesday, November 29, 2016

29.11.16 - Papagaio come milho, periquito leva fama

Well helloooo,

Quite a week we've had, around all the time-consuming work stuff which I shan't bore you with here. On Wednesday I took my newly-restored-and-actually-working guitar out for a spin at the Garaffas open mic and had a gay old time, jamming with a French/Brazilian guy who seemed quite cool until he launched into an apparently unironic cover of "Don't Worry Be Happy"... 

The following night I curtailed my experimental spell in defensive midfield and scored a couple of screamers at the football, followed by the celebratory drinking of beer.  This was followed on Friday by yet more merry-making, at the same bar to boot, for the traditional end-of-year football get-together which involved unlimited grilled meat, two crates of Brahma, rabos de galo all round and an impromptu after-hours concert in the car park.  Good times were had by all, as far I can remember.

On Saturday we went to the Bourbon mall to do our monthly shop and watch "Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them" in full IMAX 4D glory, which wasn't the cynical Harry Potter cashgrab I was expecting, and was actually pretty impressive in 3D and bowel-loosening THX sound.  Then to round out the weekend, we went on a road-trip to Holambra, a Dutch colony a couple of hours inland from São Paulo and apparently the largest producer of flowers in Brazil. 

It turned out to be a bit of a damp squib - out of season, half empty and with a thunderstorm threatening to let loose overhead - but on the plus side I got to practice driving on the motorway (for hours and hours on the way back, once Waze dropped out, I missed a turn and ended up in an alternate reality where north was south and São Paulo apparently no longer existed) and try some torta holandesa next to a big windmill, in the company of nonplussed Dutch tourists. Crucially it meant we were out of the house when Palmeiras clinched their first league title in 22 years, although there were still plenty of parties and fireworks going on by the time we staggered home.

Et maintenant... I've gorn done another compilation, and have an absolute corker of a phrase-of-the-week: "the parrot eats the corn, the parakeet takes the blame".  See also: "quem faz fama deita na cama", which basically means "if the shoe fits...", and applies to those whose nefarious reputation (or "fama") precedes them.

Goodbye forever,
Fred Dwarf

Tuesday, November 22, 2016

22.11.16 - É o roto falando do esfarrapado

Halllooooo, and very nice it was to chat with you on Sunday... You're more or less up to speed, but for the benefit of my online readers, let me take you back to this time last week... Then take you forward a few days, since nothing much of note happened until Friday, which I spent juggling cats and baking cake, before heading into town for Gaby's birthday drinks, which were rather fun.  

On the way back we stopped off at an all-night padaria, for what turned out to be another impromptu mass date involving two of Gaby's friends and a gathering of suitors. All well and good, until two of them decided that a first date, with their suitee's highly judgemental friends in attendance, was the perfect setting for some seriously hardcore competitive eating. 

We watched on in amusement, then in amazement, then in abject horror as they systematically devoured two coxinhas the size of your head (pictured left, to scale), slathered in tabasco, in under ten minutes, thereby foregoing the bill but also losing our respect forever. Speaking as someone who used to routinely bring all-you-can-eat pizza places to the brink of bankruptcy, it was a bit much.  Apparently they followed it up by ordering a vat of açai for dessert, but we'd beaten a hasty retreat by that point...

The following day I laid on the charm with a homemade powdered milk cake (version 2.0, now with strawberry/MOUSSE filling) and a birthday song for Gaby, to the tune of Umbrella - it loses a lot in translation, or indeed to anyone who isn't Gaby, but suffice to say it was brilliant and incredibly witty in Portuguese - before heading to the in-laws for lasagna, different kinds of cake and heavy napping. Then in the evening we went to a trendy diner (which lists the "black power bombom" among its burgers, amusingly enough) to meet up with Dani, Andre and Andréia and relive the events of the night before down to the last obscene detail.

Then on Sunday we went to Vila Madalena for some empanadas and a sunny stroll round the block, before Gaby got down to some serious studying and, left to my own devices for the evening, I curated an ingenious double-bill of "Alien" and "Aliens" to round out the weekend in style. 

And that's all she wrote, except for my phrase of the week, which is the Portuguese equivalent of "the pot calling the kettle black", and translates rather poetically as "the shabby talking about the tattered".   I had a compilation all ready to go, but Spotify isn't letting me make it for some reason. 

Até mais, Minas Gerais.
A Fred of Americans

UPDATE, 22.11.16: Compilation is now up here.

Tuesday, November 15, 2016

15.11.16 - Não inventa moda

Bom dia! 

What a week it's been, from the Trumpocalypse to Leonard Cohen shuffling off this mortal coil, to Facebook jumping the gun and declaring half its users DOA (the reports of my death are greatly exaggerated).   I believe Yoko Ono put it best: https://twitter.com/yokoono/status/797187458505080834

We're currently in the midst of a rainy four-day weekend (for everyone except me, obvs, although work has mercifully calmed down a bit), so have limited our activities to watching Planet Earth, and then narrating everything that goes on in the house in David Attenborough's voice ("the house cat has a busy schedule, running around like a loon every morning before sleeping for the next 20 hours", etc).  

We went to a housewarming BBQ all the way down in São Bernardo do Campo on Saturday, followed by a posh bar in the evening for what turned out to be a mass Tinder date, with Gaby and I as unwitting wingmen. We watched the São Paulo Grand Prix on Sunday which was almost called off because of the rain, but led to the rather touching sight of Felipe Massa (or "Doughy Phillip" in English) tearfully bidding farewell to his home crowd while draped in a Brazilian flag, having spun out of the race like a big idiot.

Elsewhere we've been planning our Christmas hols, making compilations-as-coping-mechanisms, reading David FW on David L, and plotting my return to the live music circuit later this week.  My phrase of the day is usually directed by parents to kids with ideas above their station, and roughly translates as "don't go inventing any fashion trends" (i.e. "don't even think about it", basically). 

Hope all well with you - speak soon, baboon!

Tuesday, November 8, 2016

08.11.16 - Água mole em pedra dura tanto bate até que fura

G'day,

A quick update as we all hold our breath for news from across the pond (or across the Panama Canal, in my case?)... 

On Thursday we went on a bit of an adventure when our car broke down on the way into town - this may or may not have something to do with it being out of gas (the gauge is broken, see). Anyway, we were winched to a petrol station in a massive truck, and eventually on to the place where we bought the car in the first place to hand it over for general repairs, much to my amusement and Gaby's dismay. 

Then on Saturday, having picked up my (hopefully now-functional) guitar we went on to the fashionable Rua Augusta for some stand-up comedy, at a sit-down nightclub imaginatively called "Comedians", and run by Danilo Gentili, the Brazilian talk-show-host equivalent of Conan O'Brien or Graham Norton who has apparently spearheaded the nascent stand-up movement here over the past few years.  

Anyway, it was most amusing - despite the banter pouring forth at breakneck speed I managed to understand most of it, give or take the odd reference to niche Brazilian cultural touchstones which went over my head. It was pretty universal "difference between men and women"/"rich and poor"/"prostate exam" material overall, but delivered with enthusiasm and plenty of biting wit (we sat in the front row but amazingly got away with nothing more than some light ribbing).  Interestingly all four comics made a point/running joke of mocking Osasco (a notoriously rubbish suburb - the Slough to São Paulo's London), which I thought only Gaby and I did. We laughed, we cried, we learnt some new naughty words, we went back to the in-laws afterwards to eat lots of cheese. 

This weekend was also notable for the scores of students taking their ENEM exams, which are kind of like A-levels... Anyway, it's quite a big deal, and invariably some students turn up late, are barred entrance and have to wait another year to take the exam. This has led to an amusing annual phenomenon where onlookers with lots of free time head to the school gates and set up camp for the day, purely to laugh at the latecomers' misfortune - SchadenFest '16, if you will. The media gets involved and everyone has a nice day out, except for the poor bastards who miss out (and sometimes pass out).  But then I have limited sympathy given the importance of the test, and it's a lot more wholesome than the equivalent yearly tradition in the UK...

In other awesome news, I have made a compilation crammed with sizzling guitars, and have an extra complicated proverb of the week for those of you keeping track - it's a rhyming couplet that translates roughly as "water dropping day by day wears the hardest rock away", or "keep at it!".  

That's all for the noo, and speak soon!

Tuesday, November 1, 2016

01.11.16 - Entre a cruz e a espada

Wotcha,

Hope all well with you, and good to see all your lovely... photos!  Over here, the Cold War between us law-abiding, God-fearing folk and the debased, dog-neglecting Commies across the road escalated over the weekend, after the endless barking prompted a call to the police and a trip to the station in the middle of the night - I doubt it'll do much good, but at least now it's in the system and hopefully the squad car parked outside their house has given them pause. We'll probably just move ASAP, as long as our landlord plays ball.

Meanwhile we've been out shopping for guitars, although the unexpectedly high prices led me to persuade a passing luthier to just fix my current one, which should hopefully be done this week. The journey also included a wander round the Praça Benedito Calixto flea market, and excursions to sample caipirinha risotto and chocolate orange ice cream (big fan of both).

In other news I have charted far-flung lands and picked weevils out of biscuits to bring you this compilation... My phrase of the week is the Portuguese equivalent of "between a rock and a hard place", and apparently dates back to the time of the Spanish Inquisition, when infidels could choose between converting to the cross, or to the sword (there is NO third thing, is that clear?!).  

Speak soon, innit,
Fred the Needle

Tuesday, October 25, 2016

25.10.16 - Suar como tampa de panela


A slow week, as work continues to be not quite as negligible as I'd like and Gaby's course continues to devour her whole.  We tried getting the cats together again at the weekend, this time at our place, but Valente is still riddled with post-op hormones and had to be quarantined at all times, so they've been separated again until he gets his act together or is returned to his owner, whichever comes first.   

We also went to see a flat down the road, which was nice but ultimately a little pricey, so we've decided to grin and bear it here until our contract runs out - we also went to the local constabulary and now have a semblance of a plan in case there's another outbreak of manic barking in the middle of the night. And Gaby talked me into getting a deep cleanse at her dermatologist on Friday, which was less painful than expected but ultimately has made no difference to my face whatsoever, as far as I can tell (she seems to like it though...).

Elsewhere we're planning a trip up the coast to Paraty next month, as well as some sort of Xmas jaunt and of course our awesome Eurotrip next summer; I've made another compilation featuring the new single by Speelburg, a.k.a. the Artist Formerly Known as Noah, among other lovely things; and this week's phrase is one of my favourites: "suar como tampa de panela" = "to sweat like a pan lid".

Hope all well with you and yours, and let's speak soon!
Fred's Atomic Dustbin

Tuesday, October 18, 2016

18.10.16 - Quebrar galho

Greetings from São Paulo, where summer has finally got its act together and we sit slack-jawed and prostrate, usually in hammocks. Everyone has dutifully switched from complaining about the cold to complaining about the heat. Even the dogs over the road have stopped barking quite so much, and we've called off the drone strike for now.

I've been getting over a touch of post-UK lurgee so haven't been up to a huge amount recently - a particularly good burger, at the imaginatively-titled "O Burguer" in Moema on Wednesday, is about the extent of our travels.  That day was a national holiday in honour of Our Lady of Aparecida, a saintly apparition in a river following a particularly fruitful fishing session back in the 1700's, and as good a reason as any for a day off.  This led to reenactments of the "Lady of the Lake" scene in Monty Python & the Holy Grail, and there was much rejoicing.

On Sunday we all went to Gaby's grandma's for a superlative birthday BBQ, featuring singalongs, grilled cinnamon pineapple (Grilled. Cinnamon. Pineapple.) and a WhatsApp tutorial on her new smartphone, before heading back to collapse. Tonight I ride to Pinheiros for a new open mic (there is more than one!), so we'll see how that goes...

My weekly phrase - "quebrar galho", or "to break the branch" - means to lend someone a hand to overcome a problem in extremis, as far as I can tell. Finally, this week I've made one regular compilation, and another special-edition effort on Youtube that attempts to sum up the horrors of the US Presidential Election as we enter the final strait... I should warn you that both contain traces of Leonard Cohen. 

That will be all - speak soon!
The Hunt for Fred October

Tuesday, October 11, 2016

11.10.16 - É muita areia para meu caminhão

Hallooo!

Lovely to speak to you on Saturday, amidst the screaming children.  My short-but-sweet trip back to Blighty was an unqualified success, post-trip lurgee notwithstanding. Landed on Wednesday and beat a path via Mercedes S-class to Cliveden House, which is a bit of a looker to say the least, for our Annual Meeting. Checked into the Shrewsbury Suite - quite possibly the best room in the place after my boss exercised his organisers' privileges beforehand - and slept like a log in a four-poster bed ahead of the main event.

On Thursday we basically ran around the grounds all day making sure everything was in its right place, prepping the film crew, babysitting the talent, welcoming the Minister from his earlier meeting with BoJo and eventually adjourning to the Bar for HRH's arrival - despite the huge security precautions earlier in the day he was pretty low-key about it all, and dinner went off without a hitch. I was sat next to the Telegraph's Defence Editor, who was telling me about his many assignments on the front line, and our Director, who regaled us with tales from Central Asia. We reckon it's the best of the three Meetings we've done so far, and the first one I've actively enjoyed as it was taking place, which makes for a nice change.

Sadly the new format meant we had to leave our fluffy beds early the next morning, to wolf down a Full English Breakfast and usher in various guests for two discussion groups, which saw us up to midday and the end of the event. Wrapped things up and went in to London and my boss' Mayfair club, to discuss contracts and catch up with our IT guy, whom we never get to see and spent some time in Brazil a few years ago for work... Then it was off to rush-hour Kings Cross and on to Ely, where I got a lift to Isleham for fish pie and bed.

The next day we had the extended family round for a roast - lovely to see everyone and eat copious amounts of lamb and crumble. Then on Sunday it was off to London again, for brunch and a stroll along the Camden canal with Kika, and an extended jaunt through Denmark St and Covent Garden to scratch a year-long itch for fish 'n chips (no rendez-vous with Jack as he was working, unfortunately), before heading back to pick up my suitcase and hit the road/underground to Heathrow.

Got back yesterday at the crack of dawn and am still a little worse for the wear, but this is the furthest away I'll ever be from next year's event, so I'm making the most of it and getting back in the swing of things. No compilation due to my exertions elsewhere - reflected in my phrase of the week, which means "that's a lot of sand for my truck" (an expression of awe/dread at the task ahead, usually followed up with a cheery "tudo bem, eu faço duas viagens" / "that's alright, I'll make two trips").

Fare thee well, your highness your highness.
The Rt. Hon. the Lord Powys of Cliveden

Tuesday, October 4, 2016

04.10.16 - Braço duro

A quick e-mail before I sail for England this evening...   

Have mostly been concentrating on our big event later this week, which should go off without a hitch, touch wood.  Elsewhere we went to Taynah's circus recital on Sunday which was most amusing, and featured plenty of mid-air acrobatics, flamenco and belly-dancing, before we held a midnight raid on Wendy's, of all places, with Taynah still in full Black Swan make-up.  Earlier we'd gone to Gaby's old school en famille to vote in the mayoral elections, which the self-made, non-political right-wing empresario candidate (a gentler, less insane Trump, by the sound of it) won by a landslide. So we'll just see, won't we.

The day before, I went to Estudio Malibu for the monthly musical rave-up with Bob the Organiser and friends, which was rather fun and led to copious Beatles covers among other things, before degenerating into weird MPB (música popular brasileira) which I couldn't be doing with. I then broke my wingmirror while backing out on the way home, but recovered over homemade sweet 'n sour chicken, and should have it all patched up soon. 

Accordingly, my phrase of the week - "braço duro" / "stiff arm" - is a slang term for a bad driver (and apparently what Ridaut used to call Ayrton Senna back in the day, when he didn't finish in first place).  I've also thrown together a new compilation to tide you over until I get back from Blighty, and will no doubt speak to you from Isleham at the weekend. 

Wish me luck!
Frodliver Oil

Tuesday, September 27, 2016

27.09.16 - Rabo de Galo

Oy oy,

Hope all well 'n good with you.   A low-key few days here, after the utilities-based trauma of last week - we had our lawyer friends Dany and Andre round on Friday night, partly to go through our damages suit against Eletropaulo together but mainly just to let off steam and eat pizza. 

On Saturday we went to Vila Mariana for one of Gaby's friends' birthday, and allegedly the best coxinhas (a creamy chicken snack and something of a national treasure, rightly so) in town; then on Sunday I went for a solo drive and wander round rainy Vila Madalena, past the lurid graffiti of Batman Alley and on to the Coffee Lab, which serves a lovely brew among all the superfluous test tubes and Bunsen burners. Probably my favourite part of town so far...

Elsewhere we tried getting the three cats together at the weekend, but Valente went medieval on their asses so they're being kept apart until further notice; I've made another, rather far-out mixtape; I can heartily recommend this documentary about an ancient Japanese sushi master (and Herzog's "Cave of Forgotten Dreams", for his soothing voiceover if nothing else); and finally, after football on Thursday I was presented with a rabo de galo, a cocktail made up of equal parts cachaça and Cinzano, which was rather nice (and which translates as "cock's tail"). 

Até logo, Botafogo,
Fred

Tuesday, September 20, 2016

20.09.16 - Dar a cara á tapa

Hallooo,

I write to you (from yesterday evening) from the dark husk of our living room, with no light or sound but the incessant yapping of dogs outside, since the electric company cut our power earlier for alleged non-payment of bills and I now have to wait for them to come back, show them proof that we did in fact pay the bill in question, and get them to turn the power back on. Apparently they might not even show up tonight at all but I have to hang around in case they do, and in the meantime I've had to resort to using a spare iPad just to write this e-mail like some kind of common pleb. How positively Dickensian...
  • (Update @ 10pm 19.09.16: No word from the electric company. So dark...)
  • (Update @ 2pm 20.09.16: Still no news. Fridge starting to emit strange smells.  A man upstairs sounds like he's building a shed.)
  • (Update @ 2:30pm 20.09.16: When will the waiting end?)
But all is well otherwise! We picked up yet another cat last week - called Valente - as part of Gaby's ongoing quest to rescue every stray in São Paulo, although this one is strictly temporary until his owner finds new lodgings. He was neutered yesterday and spent the rest of the day wobbling around the flat in comical fashion as the anaesthetic wore off, poor thing. Don't get too used to him though.

On Tuesday we went to see local piano-meisters João Carlos Martins and Arthur Moreira Lima play a show together at the Teatro Bourbon, after Ridaut scored some box tickets from work. Having never heard of either of them beforehand I was pleasantly surprised, and even a little moved by their backstory, which they frequently expounded upon in jovial fashion between songs. They both grew up as child prodigies and best mates, and were fast-tracked by Eleanor Roosevelt and President Kubitschek respectively, before studying in the States and Russia during the Cold War. Then at the height of his fame, Martins was assaulted and paralysed, but regained enough movement in his hands to become a conductor, and eventually start playing the piano again. It was quite poignant when the show cut away from his rather hesitant recitals to old footage of him shredding merrily away to Rachmaninov, but overall it was all very life-affirming and interesting. Bit of cultcha, innit.

And on Friday, we went to another show, compered by the son of one of Gaby's supervisors, who had apparently given up on his studies to pursue a career in magic. And very cool it was too, sort of a variety show made up of different kinds of magic - a surrealist Magritte homage with pipes popping out of paintings and back again, a tongue-in-cheek deconstruction of a trick (sorry, "illusion") to show how it's usually best not to know the magician's inner workings, a minimalist sketch involving leaves and straws that apparently took 8 years to perfect, mindreading, escapism, slow motion air ping pong, and finally a showstopper featuring a man who looked uncannily like a robot mannequin doing a demented line dance with his Dr. Frankenstein-esque master. Then we went for a pizza, which was pretty good too.

Otherwise work continues apace, I've reentered the footballing fray with all the match fitness and grace of a post-summer-holiday Wayne Rooney, and have tentatively road-tested Gaby's electroacoustic at our nearby practice rooms (the conclusion being that yes, I need a new guitar...). I have whipped up a frothy new compilation for your listening pleasure (but can't access Spotify right now, for power-related reasons, so I'll upload the link to my blog in due course), and my phrase of the week ("to put the face to the slap") means to get stuck in, basically. I also draw your attention to this book, which I first found in Foz do Iguaçu, and which sets out to translate (poorly) into English a load of Brazilian proverbs, resulting in a funhouse-mirror take on the translation game. Most amusing...

'Til next we do Skype,
Born Fred, as Fred as the wind blows.


Postscript @ 4pm 20.09.16: The power came back on almost exactly 24 hours after it was cut off (and minutes before the company's self-imposed deadline, which disappointingly meant I didn't even get to unleash my pre-planned rant over the phone).  I have been bathed, clothed and am recuperating over tea.   

Tuesday, September 13, 2016

13.09.16 - Cê topa?

Wotcha,

So it turns out Foz do Iguaçu is pretty dull once you’ve done all the (admittedly awesome) tourist stuff – the first time I ventured out alone in search of lunch, I ended up in the completely deserted downtown area, with not a single shop open as far as the eye could see.  I was later reminded that it was a national holiday for the anniversary of Brazilian independence, but still, didn’t exactly inspire confidence…

Spent an interminable four days trying to get the hotel internet to work and generally flopping about while Gaby went to her convention and rubbed elbows with fellow behaviourists, then rallied our spirits on Friday night for a fancy-dress party – wearing a dodgy wig and waistcoat in honour of my musical hero, Wesley Safadão – and got the hell out of Dodge at 4am the next morning.

Gaby’s backlog of studies and general post-holiday lethargy meant we didn’t do much over the weekend either, so in lieu of any real news I’ve decided to turn this week’s blog entry over to an extensive study of MPB heartthrob Luan Santana, another of the sertanejo Holy Trinity that we saw in concert about a year ago and have plagued my life ever since (Jorge & Mateus, I’ll deal with you later…)

I regret to report that even after all this time I still can’t get into sertanejo, although I’ve at least moved beyond the initial state known jokingly round these parts as sertanojo (“serta-nausea”), brought on by lengthy exposure to accordions. But Luan Santana intrigues me, as his success goes against virtually everything I thought I knew about pop music and X-factor.  It is no exaggeration to say that his continued, enormous popularity has shaken my system of beliefs to its very core.

Sure, at first glance he may seem like the Brazilian Justin Beiber, from the trendy clothes and hair to the highly punchable face, and undeniably catchy hits.  But in his lyrics he comes across as such a massive square – the Cliff Richard to Wesley Safadão’s randy Mick Jagger, if you will - that I’m always amazed anyone within his audience’s main demographics (teenagers, adults with arrested development, etc) can listen to him with a straight face.

Take one of his signature hits, “Cê Topa” (“What do you say?”), whose chorus goes “me, you, two kids and a dog, a blanket and a good film in the August cold - what do you say?”   I mean, it’s a catchy tune, but I would have thought the cloying domesticity, not to say the utter lameness, of such sentiments would be total anathema to any normal moody teenager.  At my advanced age, I actually happen to find the idea of curling up with a blanket and a good film appealing, but I would never dare write a song about it, and I certainly wouldn’t expect the youth to lap it up in their droves if I did.  Where’s the crippling angst?  The dizzying euphoria? The terrifying lows, the dizzying highs, the creamy middles that characterise all the most memorable pop songs?

But lap it up they do, more so with every new, highly formulaic single.  “Tudo Que Você Quiser” has him offering to give his last name to an unidentified bride-to-be, “Chuva de Arroz” has him imagining getting married at the local church as soon as possible, while “Escreve Aí” – his biggest hit so far and probably his best, in a syrupy Disney soundtrack kind of way – introduces some post-break-up tension, only for Santana to fold faster than Superman on laundry day, saying he’ll come crawling back at the click of a finger.  One of his songs is even based on the decades-long unrequited longing of “Love in the Time of Cholera”, for God’s sake.

All standard wish-fulfilment bollocks, of course – our man Luan is not even remotely married, and like any self-respecting pop star probably sleeps on a pile of money surrounded by many beautiful, interchangeable women – but it’s the nature of the wish that perplexes and freaks me out a bit.  I can only deduce that Brazilian teenagers really do want to get married and settle down, like some kind of mad Evangelical cult…

I realise my finger isn’t exactly on the pulse, but I can’t think of any other pop stars whose songs so consistently yearn for a happy marriage, safe family, wholesome pets and a balanced credit card.  “When I’m Sixty-Four” and “Wouldn’t It Be Nice” are the only songs that spring to mind, but they aren’t really aimed at teens, are nearly fifty years old and are probably secretly about drugs anyway.  There are plenty of contented dad-rockers out there, sure, but presumably they’re just singing to other contented dads. 

I assumed this was because teenagers tend to turn their nose up at things like marriage and domestic bliss, while the rest of us either feel the same or lead such sheltered, predictable lives that we demand our music be slightly edgy just for the sake of contrast.  Even people like Ed Sheeran, Bruno Mars and the Backstreet Boys have always been marketed with some semblance of bad-boy grit, so as not to lose the rebellious adolescent vote; yet against all odds Santana has completely embraced the goody-two-shoes act and cornered the youth market in Brazil, because apparently that’s what they want.

I spoke to a number of experts about this (OK, just Gaby), and it is a definite regional phenomenon… Kids here almost invariably live with, and are supplied for by their parents until they’re married off.   This is usually because of issues related to security and economics, but mainly just down to tradition and/or religion.   So there’s a lot more kinship and less tension between generations than in Europe and the US, and conversely a much stronger desire among the young’uns to get married sooner rather than later, and gain some kind of independence. 

This means they can relate to a blanket and a good film on a cold day – old-person stuff, basically - perhaps more than raving in a warehouse or freezing in a Brixton squat.  It might also explain why everyone I’ve met here is obsessed with going to Disneyland.   All of which I can understand, even if it makes for some pretty toothless music (and some pretty unrealistic expectations of marriage, for that matter)…

I should add in closing that I don’t want to be too hard on Luan, who seems like a lovely lad with some good tunes, and who probably shouldn’t be held responsible for the whims of an entire society… I also haven’t even got round to mentioning Roberto Carlos (NB: not the footballer) who actually is the Brazilian Cliff Richard, right down to the age-defying toupee – I’ll be sure to include a full report on him in the weeks to come, because he cracks me up.

Next week on Gringolândia, SP: a hot new take on the Myspace craze that’s taking the nation by storm, and an uncompromising investigation into the socioeconomic roots of the Harlem Shake.

Yours, down with the kids,

PS: Almost forgot – new compilation o’clock!  And I can recommend the new Nick Cave album as the perfect antidote to anything Luan Santana-related, or indeed anything positive or comforting ever.

PPS: Got your postcard from Berlin and letter from Cambridge! I have a postcard for you from Foz, which I will send on the first mule out of town.