Tuesday, December 27, 2016

27.12.16 - Beleza não se põe à mesa

Halloooo, hope your Christmas festivities were suitably joyous...   Ours certainly were, including a full-table spread at Gaby's grandma's on Christmas Eve, followed by a follow-up lasagna binge at Adny and Ridaut's the following afternoon.  I discovered rabanadas, a festive spin on cinnamon toast which I must learn to make, and gorged onpudim and prosecco as custom dictates.

On that note, let's get the phrase of the week out of the way: it translates as "beauty doesn't put food on the table", meaning appearances aren't everything if you can't back it up (with food, obviously).

Prior to the aforementioned feasts, we went to Taynah and Rafa's new flat for a tour and a go on their custom-installed circus cloth (well, Gaby did - I was deemed to tall to be safely dangled above the floor), before seeing the latest Star War at a nearby cinema (my review: took a while to get going, but I was fully on board by the time Darth Vader starting laying into a corridor full of Rebel henchmen).

Yesterday I went to Vila Madalena for some lab-brewed coffee, and today was mostly spent getting to Ilhabela, via land and sea. Should be good! Will try and Skype you from here, send photos, etc.   In the meantime, have a compilation.

Ciao for now,

Saturday, December 24, 2016

24.12.16 - Água com açúcar

Christmas can be pretty odd, if you think about it.   Taking some time off at the end of the year to be with your family and friends – I get that.   Buying presents for them – sure, why not.   Putting up a sparkly tree while singing Gregorian chants - OK, whatever floats your boat.   Hanging large socks on the mantelpiece for a portly stranger who flies down the chimney on a fleet of reindeer… Sorry, who did you say you know at this party again?

The rituals surrounding the basic goodwill-to-all Christmas message can get very weird very quickly, even on your own turf and through the comforting filter of tradition.   Abroad, these eccentricities are thrown into stark relief.   Apparently the folks who celebrate Christmas in Japan do so with large buckets of KFC following a canny marketing push in the ‘70s, while Mexicans traditionally wander the streets inviting themselves into other people’s houses in homage to Mary and Joseph in Bethlehem, except with piñatas.   Similarly, a foreigner might look askance at, say, the Only Fools & Horses Christmas special in the UK, or the French willingly baking a choking hazard into their galettes du roi, for reasons that no one can really remember.

Brazil has plenty of these seasonal quirks – for one, it’s boiling hot in December so the Saint Nick/reindeer look is pretty counterintuitive, leading to amusing sights like Santa’s grotto in Guarujá two years back, home to a very sweaty man in a red vest and white beard.   Also, everyone opens their presents on the night of December 24th, so surely even the dullest of kids must immediately realise that (SPOILER ALERT) Father Christmas doesn’t exist, and yet there he is every year.  

One tradition that you can set your watch to in Brazil is Roberto Carlos’ Christmas show, which is invariably filmed in November and aired in late December.   It’s been going for over 40 years, making it one of the longest-running annual TV events I can think of, and is so ingrained in the national psyche that I must be the only one who still notices how bizarre the entire spectacle is.

Roberto Carlos, for the uninitiated, is a soft-rock crooner and bona fide national treasure (and not, as I first thought, the left-back namesake with a foot like a traction engine).   It struck me as rather quaint that someone so unassuming could become almost as big a symbol of Christmas as Santa himself - imagine if the UK ground to a halt every year to watch a Cliff Richard TV special - but then it has only recently become clear to me just how spectacularly popular he is over here.  He’s sold more records in Latin America than the Beatles, and has collaborated with anyone who’s anyone since the ‘60s.   In Brazil, Elvis isn’t “the King”; Roberto Carlos is.

He got started in TV and film, as part of the family-friendly “Jovem Guarda” rock scene, and must have nailed his own brand of Beatlemania as he successfully transitioned into middle age crooning romantic numbers in Portuguese and Spanish.   Nowadays, apart from the occasional album of standards or ill-advised remix project, his only commitments are the Christmas special and the Roberto Carlos cruise (“Emotions on the High Seas”) which ships out every February and fits his current appearance - basically that of a washed-up cruise-ship entertainer – to a T.   Gaby really wants to go on the Roberto Carlos cruise one day, although she would never admit this to her friends.
 
RC has also acted as a sort of canary in the mine for Brazilian society – during the military dictatorship you were either Team Carlos (clean-cut, mop-tops, etc) or Team Caetano (Veloso, who spearheaded the crazier Tropicália movement and ended up in political exile in London) - but the former later admitted that some of his songs were subtle homages to Caetano, disguised as love songs to fool the censors.   And even Rob isn’t impervious to the current recession: next year’s “cruise” will take place at a resort on dry land, and this year’s TV special had noticeably reduced production values…

My knowledge of his back catalogue is limited to a live CD on the car iPod, but from what I’ve heard, I must say the man has some tunes.  The big hits are “Detalhes”, a sweeping ballad of betrayal and regret, and “É Preciso Saber Viver”, a singalong in the “Hey Jude” mould.   He does a nifty line in upbeat songs about his cars (“O Cadillac” and “O Calhembeque”), and can exhibit a decidedly unromantic streak on tracks like “Cavalgada”, an astonishing six-minute epic which recounts his sexual predilections in uncomfortable detail, via horse-riding metaphor.   Interestingly he doesn’t seem to have many Christmas songs, although he goes on about Jesus a lot.

Mostly “água com açúcar” (“water with sugar”, i.e. nothing to get worked up about), and his longtime songwriting partner Erasmo Carlos has the superior LP, but you can see the appeal.   He’s actually had a pretty rough life, as everyone he’s known and loved has died in tragic circumstances, which adds some depth to his more introspective work.   Even his Keanu Reeves-esque onstage demeanour comes from losing a leg when he was a kid, so my usual barrage of snide cynicism feels a bit mean-spirited on this occasion.

Slashed budget notwithstanding, yesterday’s Christmas special followed a tried-and-tested formula – a professional Greatest Hits revue, in more-or-less chronological order, with cameo appearances by the pop stars and it-people du jour to keep things interesting.    These grasps at cultural relevance sometimes lead to mildly comical attempts at duets, but the general mood is one of unabashed hero-worship and back-patting.   A walking catalogue of diva-esque eccentricities at this point (demanding that everyone wear only blue and white, that kind of thing), Rob meets and greets his guests, visibly goes through the motions until the final singalong of “Jesus Cristo”, doles out roses to the audience, then exits stage right with a wry smile, presumably to kick back and relax for another year. 

And well he might.   He often seems as baffled as anyone by the last half-century of adulation and fame, but then not much makes sense this time of year…

Bonus photo: Ridaut backstage with Robbie C

Tuesday, December 20, 2016

20.12.16 - O rabo está abanando o cachorro

Hallooo, and thanks for your Xmas missives as we gradually power down for the festive holidays.   

Christmas fever truly took hold on Sunday when we went to Aldeia da Serra for the annual Cossi BBQ, featuring animatronic festive decorations in every nook and cranny, a cameo from Andrew in between various capoeira retreats (pictured here with a cushion-based modern art piece), lots of food and drink (including Brasileirinhas, a passion-fruit-and-lime caipirinha in the national colours) and impromptu races on the giant inflatable Havaianas in the pool.  Good times were had by all.

The previous night we went to Villa Country for ribs and line-dancing, which made for a fine combo.  I spotted at least ten people wearing cowboy hats unironically, and actually found it strangely relaxing to follow the same dance steps over and over along with everyone else on the dancefloor (or try to, anyway).

Otherwise we've been herding cats and hunting flats, although I don't foresee much movement on those fronts now until the new year.   I have instead made a very indie Xmas compilation for the weekend, and will leave you with my latest turn of phrase - "the tail is shaking the dog" - which applies to any situation where the natural order of things has been reversed...

Speak soon, and ciao for now,

Tuesday, December 13, 2016

13.12.16 - Toca Raul!

Tally ho,

Hope you're all well in that there France.  We've been diligently flathunting all weekend, veering between the promising (a few nice places, some promising leads from bemused doormen) and the depressing (being told in detailed terms just how far we are from getting a foot on the property ladder by a real estate agent in a hollowed-out, possibly-haunted building site).  Hopefully we'll find somewhere that fits the bill before the Christmas-to-Carnaval torpor sets in.

Elsewhere we went to Garrafas on Wednesday night for a jam with some of Gaby's coursemates, checked out Andréia's new flat in the Zona Sul on Saturday, and had a sing at a nearby practice studio on Sunday.  My personal highlight was going to the gym on Friday to see Gaby and three other girls practice a catwalk-and-choreography for a pyjama fashion show (no, really) they're doing later this week.  I'm not invited to the main event, so as not to distract the talent, but was suitably impressed by the rehearsal.

I've made not one but two compilations, and have been investigating a phrase that I've heard uttered in various live music settings - "Toca Raul!"   Turns out it's the Brazilian equivalent of "Play 'Freebird'!" and refers to the work of Raul Seixas, who I had never heard of but apparently was a big deal in the local rock scene in the '70s and '80s (people still hold an annual parade on his birthday in São Paulo, change their name to his by deed poll, etc).  This article suggests the saying is a curse brought on by Seixas' diminished reputation at the time of his death, and also includes the word "galhofa" ("a big lark"), which is fun to say.

That'll do, pig.

Tuesday, December 6, 2016

06.12.16 - Queimar filme

Hallooo,

Not much to report since the last entry - in a holding pattern as work continues its prolonged death rattle before the holidays (hopefully).   This week we begin house-hunting in earnest, get the cats together and force them to love each other, and gear up for the festive season...

Most of our exploits this week have been based around food (as it should be).   On Friday night we went out for a fancy burger with some of Gaby's masters chums and potential company co-founders, which was followed by a work group gathering in our front room on Sunday and a trip to the new Zona Norte branch of Coco Bambu last night, to celebrate Gaby wrapping up the semester.   I also intend to make mince pies for Christmas, although mincemeat seems to be at a premium here...

Elsewhere I'm reading "Kafka on the Shore" (in which the main character runs away to Shikoku, and is currently staying in the woods near Kochi - thought of Tom...), I've made another compilation, and have been listening to lots of fado having read about the sad Portuguese.  My phrase of the week - "to burn the film" - means to trash someone's reputation, usually by publicly shaming them, and dates back to when you could ruin photographic film by exposing it to too much light.

Well, about time I hit the ol' dusty trail... Speak soon!

Tuesday, November 29, 2016

29.11.16 - Papagaio come milho, periquito leva fama

Well helloooo,

Quite a week we've had, around all the time-consuming work stuff which I shan't bore you with here. On Wednesday I took my newly-restored-and-actually-working guitar out for a spin at the Garaffas open mic and had a gay old time, jamming with a French/Brazilian guy who seemed quite cool until he launched into an apparently unironic cover of "Don't Worry Be Happy"... 

The following night I curtailed my experimental spell in defensive midfield and scored a couple of screamers at the football, followed by the celebratory drinking of beer.  This was followed on Friday by yet more merry-making, at the same bar to boot, for the traditional end-of-year football get-together which involved unlimited grilled meat, two crates of Brahma, rabos de galo all round and an impromptu after-hours concert in the car park.  Good times were had by all, as far I can remember.

On Saturday we went to the Bourbon mall to do our monthly shop and watch "Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them" in full IMAX 4D glory, which wasn't the cynical Harry Potter cashgrab I was expecting, and was actually pretty impressive in 3D and bowel-loosening THX sound.  Then to round out the weekend, we went on a road-trip to Holambra, a Dutch colony a couple of hours inland from São Paulo and apparently the largest producer of flowers in Brazil. 

It turned out to be a bit of a damp squib - out of season, half empty and with a thunderstorm threatening to let loose overhead - but on the plus side I got to practice driving on the motorway (for hours and hours on the way back, once Waze dropped out, I missed a turn and ended up in an alternate reality where north was south and São Paulo apparently no longer existed) and try some torta holandesa next to a big windmill, in the company of nonplussed Dutch tourists. Crucially it meant we were out of the house when Palmeiras clinched their first league title in 22 years, although there were still plenty of parties and fireworks going on by the time we staggered home.

Et maintenant... I've gorn done another compilation, and have an absolute corker of a phrase-of-the-week: "the parrot eats the corn, the parakeet takes the blame".  See also: "quem faz fama deita na cama", which basically means "if the shoe fits...", and applies to those whose nefarious reputation (or "fama") precedes them.

Goodbye forever,
Fred Dwarf

Tuesday, November 22, 2016

22.11.16 - É o roto falando do esfarrapado

Halllooooo, and very nice it was to chat with you on Sunday... You're more or less up to speed, but for the benefit of my online readers, let me take you back to this time last week... Then take you forward a few days, since nothing much of note happened until Friday, which I spent juggling cats and baking cake, before heading into town for Gaby's birthday drinks, which were rather fun.  

On the way back we stopped off at an all-night padaria, for what turned out to be another impromptu mass date involving two of Gaby's friends and a gathering of suitors. All well and good, until two of them decided that a first date, with their suitee's highly judgemental friends in attendance, was the perfect setting for some seriously hardcore competitive eating. 

We watched on in amusement, then in amazement, then in abject horror as they systematically devoured two coxinhas the size of your head (pictured left, to scale), slathered in tabasco, in under ten minutes, thereby foregoing the bill but also losing our respect forever. Speaking as someone who used to routinely bring all-you-can-eat pizza places to the brink of bankruptcy, it was a bit much.  Apparently they followed it up by ordering a vat of açai for dessert, but we'd beaten a hasty retreat by that point...

The following day I laid on the charm with a homemade powdered milk cake (version 2.0, now with strawberry/MOUSSE filling) and a birthday song for Gaby, to the tune of Umbrella - it loses a lot in translation, or indeed to anyone who isn't Gaby, but suffice to say it was brilliant and incredibly witty in Portuguese - before heading to the in-laws for lasagna, different kinds of cake and heavy napping. Then in the evening we went to a trendy diner (which lists the "black power bombom" among its burgers, amusingly enough) to meet up with Dani, Andre and Andréia and relive the events of the night before down to the last obscene detail.

Then on Sunday we went to Vila Madalena for some empanadas and a sunny stroll round the block, before Gaby got down to some serious studying and, left to my own devices for the evening, I curated an ingenious double-bill of "Alien" and "Aliens" to round out the weekend in style. 

And that's all she wrote, except for my phrase of the week, which is the Portuguese equivalent of "the pot calling the kettle black", and translates rather poetically as "the shabby talking about the tattered".   I had a compilation all ready to go, but Spotify isn't letting me make it for some reason. 

Até mais, Minas Gerais.
A Fred of Americans

UPDATE, 22.11.16: Compilation is now up here.